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How to Replace an replacement audi a3 key G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video Charles the humble mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is located near the edges of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU via a grey wire (T55/49) which is then sent to the tachometer within the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear, the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 using an uncolored wire. The ECU utilizes this information to regulate boost and fuel. It also sends signals to the G5 tachometer inside the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to correlate the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu has to know when the crankshaft reached TDC, and the position of the camshaft, in order to activate the spark and injectors.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display an error code P00160. This indicates that the Crank Shaft is not in sync with the Intake Camshaft. It could also indicate an issue with the chain or a jump in the chain link of the upper chain. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit challenging since there are two connector pins, and they perform different functions however the best way to test it is to measure the resistance between the sensor and the ECU. It should read about 1000 ohms if the sensor is in full operation. If you're experiencing issues with this part, check for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when accelerating from highway paytoll at maximum speed I noticed a significant reduction in power. It was as if the engine had run out of gas. Or my injectors were not firing. Today, i pulled out the spark plugs, three were drenched with gazoline the fourth was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks, i place a tissue on the top of each of the injector holes and the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th stays closed. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30, and 48/55. I got 0ohm. I'm assuming that the issue is somewhere else.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car can start if the G28 is unplugged and runs fine when it is connected, but still is experiencing intermittent misfires at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even when it is unplugged, shows an ice temperature of -49c. Also i noticed that the gauge for oil pressure in the cockpit is showing 2 bar, whereas the actual pressure is 0.0 when i rev the engine.
I'm not sure what to do. I think I've ruled everything else out. I'm afraid i may have missed something. Let me know should you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump on the g28 is activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is identical to the G4 and they both work in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or in a local parts store. It is simple to test them - simply put your DMM into resistance mode and test the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector end facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY, and ADU) engines have an ECU that must be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft to make decisions about timing of the fuel injectors, etc. To do this, it uses a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If either of these goes bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner that could cause engine shut down.
A failing G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter, lost a gearbox that shifts more quickly than normal, and/or a misfire while in the gear. It is probable that your sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you experience any of these symptoms. They're cheap and easy to find, especially in the case of an Bosch unit like ours. If you prefer, GM's version of this part would be an option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine sensor could cause a myriad of issues within your vehicle. It's an essential component of the audi Car key cover's transmission as it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's crankshaft is spinning. If this sensor fails, it can cause problems for the transmission as well as the other car's components.
The G5 engine speed sensor is located on the edge of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49, via a grey wire. The ECU is then able to process this signal to regulate fuel, timig, and boost, and also transmitting it to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can determine if the sensor is in failure by examining the continuity of the sensor to the tachometer. Also, you can examine the continuity between pins T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 as well as pin T26a/12. It should show around 1000 ohms of resistance between those points. This is a standard part that is found across the audi lost key 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones could be available in wrecking yards.
In this video Charles the humble mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is located near the edges of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU via a grey wire (T55/49) which is then sent to the tachometer within the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed SensorLocated on the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear, the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 using an uncolored wire. The ECU utilizes this information to regulate boost and fuel. It also sends signals to the G5 tachometer inside the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to correlate the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu has to know when the crankshaft reached TDC, and the position of the camshaft, in order to activate the spark and injectors.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display an error code P00160. This indicates that the Crank Shaft is not in sync with the Intake Camshaft. It could also indicate an issue with the chain or a jump in the chain link of the upper chain. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit challenging since there are two connector pins, and they perform different functions however the best way to test it is to measure the resistance between the sensor and the ECU. It should read about 1000 ohms if the sensor is in full operation. If you're experiencing issues with this part, check for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when accelerating from highway paytoll at maximum speed I noticed a significant reduction in power. It was as if the engine had run out of gas. Or my injectors were not firing. Today, i pulled out the spark plugs, three were drenched with gazoline the fourth was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks, i place a tissue on the top of each of the injector holes and the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th stays closed. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30, and 48/55. I got 0ohm. I'm assuming that the issue is somewhere else.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car can start if the G28 is unplugged and runs fine when it is connected, but still is experiencing intermittent misfires at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even when it is unplugged, shows an ice temperature of -49c. Also i noticed that the gauge for oil pressure in the cockpit is showing 2 bar, whereas the actual pressure is 0.0 when i rev the engine.
I'm not sure what to do. I think I've ruled everything else out. I'm afraid i may have missed something. Let me know should you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump on the g28 is activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is identical to the G4 and they both work in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or in a local parts store. It is simple to test them - simply put your DMM into resistance mode and test the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector end facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY, and ADU) engines have an ECU that must be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft to make decisions about timing of the fuel injectors, etc. To do this, it uses a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If either of these goes bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner that could cause engine shut down.
A failing G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter, lost a gearbox that shifts more quickly than normal, and/or a misfire while in the gear. It is probable that your sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you experience any of these symptoms. They're cheap and easy to find, especially in the case of an Bosch unit like ours. If you prefer, GM's version of this part would be an option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine sensor could cause a myriad of issues within your vehicle. It's an essential component of the audi Car key cover's transmission as it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's crankshaft is spinning. If this sensor fails, it can cause problems for the transmission as well as the other car's components.
The G5 engine speed sensor is located on the edge of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49, via a grey wire. The ECU is then able to process this signal to regulate fuel, timig, and boost, and also transmitting it to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can determine if the sensor is in failure by examining the continuity of the sensor to the tachometer. Also, you can examine the continuity between pins T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 as well as pin T26a/12. It should show around 1000 ohms of resistance between those points. This is a standard part that is found across the audi lost key 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones could be available in wrecking yards.
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